LAST NIGHT IN KUALA LUMPUR

We enjoyed our stay at the Cameron Highlands, the cooler climate and laid back atmosphere. On leaving we took the coach to KL – about a three hour journey. The large drop off coach station is adjacent to a huge transit centre and you can get the airport train from here. As our hotel is part of the airport complex it was the easiest way to get there. On arrival a sign points to the Sama Sama Hotel and there were several golf buggies waiting to pick up guests, so luggage loaded along with ourselves we arrived in style – by golf buggy!

We checked in and were pleasantly surprised when they upgraded us to the Premier Floor. The large lounge area on this floor has a two hour open bar and an array of food and overlooks the airport and control tower – all at no cost. We enjoyed the couple of hours here and did not need dinner.

Breakfast the next day had a huge choice from omelettes, cereals, fruits, pancakes to the usual array of rice dishes and curries etc. We just opted for the norm. There was a lovely swimming pool here with lots of palms and foliage around where I enjoyed a swim before packing our last bits and pieces of luggage. We checked out, got the buggy to the airport and waited for our flight to Singapore, just a 45 minute trip with a slight delay because of a huge storm. We then had a five hour wait in Singapore before flight to Brisbane, we booked into Qantas Club and then I went shopping for an hour or so. I had some ringgit to dispose of. Just 7 hours or so after boarding we were touching down in Brisbane to another huge storm and a big hold up on the highway, there had been a bad accident. Thanks to Marilyn for picking us up in the rain. Although we enjoyed quite a lot of this holiday, we were very pleased to be back home again.

Hotel swimming pool

Hotel golf buggy to the airport

Tanah Rata is the largest township of Cameron Highlands, located 10km north of or 2km before along the main road. The administrative center of this highland resort destination, Tanah Rata features the most infrastructure and facilities while serving as the main hub Consequently, there are many hotels, resorts and apartments providing accommodation at town and surrounding countryside, including backpacker inns and lodges. Tanah Rata translates to 'Flat Land' in local language - a reference to its broad and relatively level terrain meandering between the valley.

CAMERON HIGHLANDS

We left Penang and visited the Cameron Highlands for six nights before travelling to KL for an overnighter and our trip home to Australia.

We took the coach from Georgetown, it takes about 3 hours to arrive at Cameron Highlands. When leaving the main highway for the turnoff and after the town of Ipoh, the road winds on narrow roads and hairpin bends. The driver was a bit of a worry talking on his mobile phone and changing sim cards while driving. But we did arrive in one piece. The Cameron Highlands are beautifully cool. After the heat of Penang it was delightful to be in the sort of temperatures that we are used to. A sigh of relief was breathed when we alighted from the coach – cool air that we hadn't experienced since leaving Australia. As we had all our luggage with us we had to get a taxi to the guest house we had selected and it was just a couple of minutes drive from the coach drop off.

The Arundina Guest House at Tanah Rata is quite delightful. Nice room, extremely clean and nice touches of décor throughout. The staff are friendly to the extreme, will answer any questions and always with a smile. Tours can be booked from the guest house. There are two floors of accommodation each with a small balcony at the end of the corridor, nice to sit there for drinks, tea or coffee. A simple breakfast is available of cereal, fruit, toast and jam. Tea or coffee you can make at any time during the day. There is a pretty garden at the back where you can sit and while away half an hour or so. This guest house is conveniently situated a few minutes walk to the main town of Tanah Rata.

Arundina

Tana Rata

Is the largest township of Cameron Highlands and is located 10 km north of Ringlet or 2 km before Brinchang along the main road. There are many hotels, resorts, inns, lodges and apartments providing accommodation. There are many eating outlets here, rather outdated and quality not great although we did enjoy a banana leaf rice, freshly baked naan bread at one place, we went there twice. In the main, quite reasonably priced. It's pretty impossible to get a glass of wine here, beer seems to be the only alcohol available. You will find banks, tour booking agencies, small mini markets and other shops. There are several trails or jungle walks that are numbered. You can do these alone or book a guide. There are a number of strawberry farms where you can pick your own strawberries. Some hotels are halal (no alcohol). The best place for dinner or drinks is the Cameron Highlands Resort, a colonial hotel with top class service and two restaurants that non-resident guests can enjoy. Good quality wine here too. There is not much in the way of car hire here but taxis are cheap so that is the most convenient way to get around other than the tours. Buses are few and far between and apparently don't run to time. So we just used taxis.

The Cameron Highlands Resort

Richard boooked us in for dinner here for my birthday surprise. He happened to tell them when he booked that it was my birthday. We started with some drinks and a game of scrabble.  Service is first class and the décor wonderful. There is a large pond with a waterfall accommodating large carp, a lovely gift shop, a library, the large bar area/lounge has a pianist playing, definitely the best venue in Tanah Rata. The captain, Gerard, (maitre D) invited us to a fire lighting ceremony as we were special guests (his words). He took photos and presented them to us in two frames. He encouraged us to eat in the Steamboat Restaurant. Steamboats are a speciality of this area. I was surprised with a very nice table decoration of two swans made from towels and serviettes and a candle. Gerard then educated us in the intricacies of steamboat. A big divided pot on a gas plate is delivered to your table and holds your choice of bubbling soup. A large display of vegetables, all types of noodles and dipping sauces are arranged on a large buffet table which you select and take to your table. We chose the fish as our main and the raw fish included barramundi, prawns, squid, fish balls, scallops was served to us. Then the fun begins, you ladle in fish, veges, prawns, let them cook for a minute or two, then go fishing. It's good fun and tastes delicious. And then it was deserts, a table with many types of pastries, cakes, fruits, jellies, strawberries are there for selection. To top it off, three wait staff came to our table and sang happy birthday to me with two little cup cakes, a candle in one, and happy birthday written in chocolate on the plate. A birthday celebration I won't forget. We decided to return for high tea.

The fire lighting ceremony

By the fire

Table Decoration

The Steamboat

High Tea

So the day before we left we went again mid afternoon for high tea and sampled little sandwiches, cakes, scones, cream, strawberries and jam and Cameron Highland tea. Oh, so yummy.

Boe Tea Plantation Tour

We took the tour of the above tea plantation. We were picked up at our accommodation by 4WD, a pretty rough car, no seat belts and torn seats. As the drive is extremely windy on narrow roads I had to find something to hang onto in order to stay upright. The driver blasts the horn at each bend to warn any oncoming vehicle – a little hairy in places. It took approximately half an hour to reach the plantation. The plantation is about 600 hectares and there are tea plants as far as the eye can see. We stopped at a good viewing area and Francis, our guide, explained about the tea growing process and also picked various leaves from different plants and explained their medicinal uses. Then it was a jungle walk through the mossy forest, glad we had a guide with us. It's quite rough in places with wooden platforms to assist the rugged terrain here and there. Again Francis showed us some unusual plants with accompanying story. The walk took about 45 minutes. Next we drove to the colonial era tea factory where we could observe the processing of the tea from the picked leaves to the final stage of the tea leaf. We visited the shop where there is, you've guessed it, various types of tea for sale. We bought a few samples. We then went to the cafeteria for a snack and a cup of tea served from a teapot of course. We sat on the open air balcony, quite impressive views of the tea plantation from here. An enjoyable experience.

Amongst the Tea Plants

4WD Tour Car

Part of the Plantation

In the Mossy Forest

Tea in the Cafe

Barracks Cafe

Is the best cafe in Tanah Rata. It's away from the main strip and situated near to the convent. They have converted three old barracks to kitchen and inside dining area. There is the prettiest of gardens for outside dining, many trees, plants and colourful baskets set out beautifully. Umbrellas over tables. The menu isn't huge but you can choose curries, rice dishes, wraps, croissants and very nice freshly squeezed juices or yoghurt drinks. I can recommend the mango yoghurt. The wait staff are very attentive, always ask if meal is satisfactory and if you tell them you are staying at Arundina you get 20 per cent off the bill. Only drawback is they don't have a liquor licence. It is newly opened and I am sure it is going to be very successful.

Lunch in The Barracks Garden

LANGKOWI ISLAND

We escaped the heat of Penang for six nights on Langkowi Island. Although pretty hot here too, it's a different kind of heat, dryer and not quite so humid. Langkowi is officially known as the Jewel of Kedah and is within an archipelago of 104 islands in the Andaman Sea some 30 km off the mainland coast of north western Malasia. It is accessed by ferry from the Ferry Terminal in Georgetown and takes approximately 3 to 3.5 hours to get there. Langkowi is a tax free haven and so a lot of people go there to buy alcohol, perfume etc. Wine is pretty expensive in Malaysia, I didn't see any reasonable priced wine there although there were good drops at high prices.

We stayed at Palau Cenang, about 30 minutes by taxi from the ferry terminal, we booked into Fave Hotel which is very near the beach, about a five minute walk away. A pleasant hotel, room was quite okay with a/cond and serviced daily. Swimming pool adjacent to the dining area and bar, water temperature was like a warm bath most of the day, a little cooler first thing in the morning and late afternoon. It's not really deep enough for a proper swim but pleasant enough for dip and cool down and relaxation on the lounges. Daily breakfast was plentiful with a number of choices including the curries and rice dishes. I stuck to cereal and fruit or omelette and toast or sometimes all of the above. Hotel staff helpful and courteous always smiling. I splurged on a head to toe body massage in the hotel's spa, very relaxing. There are many massage places around town, maybe a little cheaper than the hotel but it was good to indulge on site.

Saying goodbye to two of the waitresses

Cable Car

At 700 metres above sea level, the cable car ride up to Langkawi's second highest peak is an experience not to be missed. Throughout the 20-minute ride, you will pass over jungle waterfalls and a thick carpet of rainforest. Travelling at a steep incline over a distance of about 2 kilometres from the base station to the two mountain-top stations. At the top, a sky bridge offers a breathtaking view over Langkawi. It's about a 20 minute walk to reach the sky bridge, easy downhill to get there but quite a steep climb on way back. But it is well worth the effort, there are seats along the way where you can catch your breath for five minutes. We visited on one of the days we had the hire car, otherwise it would be a taxi. Didn't see any tours to the cable car.

In the cable car

A station before the top

View of the jungle beneath

On the sky bridge

Island Hopping

The Langkawi Island Hopping Tour takes you on a journey to explore Langkawi’s small inlets. Travel is via a very fast speed boat. First you’ll be taken to visit Pulau Singa Besar – Big Lion Island; the boat stops just shy of the shores and you’ll get the chance to watch the eagles as they soar overhead and an up-close look as they dive to catch their titbits which is chicken bits that the boat driver has thrown into the water.

Next head on over to Pulau Dayang Bunting – the silhouette of the pregnant maiden from a distance is truly awe-inspiring; meanwhile the Lake of the Pregnant Maiden overflowing with supposed ‘magical’ waters is another breathtaking sight. Legend is that women trying to become pregnant are helped by bathing in these waters. Relax on the adjoining buoys on the shores, dip your feet into the waters or splash and swim around in the enclosed sections. The day ends with a visit to ‘Beras Basah Island’ – or Wet Rice Island – another beach area with clear waters where it is safe to swim. A good morning's entertainment.

Speed Boat to the islands

Monkeys scavaging

At the island of the Pregnant Maiden

Eagles Swooping

Lots of Speed Boats

Eating

Many cafes and restaurants in the main street in Cenang. Most are reasonably priced, menus outside so you can menu shop before selecting. Some places looked a bit grotty so we were selective at where we chose to eat.

Car Hire

We hired a car for two days via the hotel's own car hire. Very cheap at 90 ringgit ($30) a day. So we were able to explore most of the island.

Beach Bludging

Launching a parasail

Very pretty uncrowded beach, you can hire deck chairs with a roof for sun protection for 10 ringgit (around $3.50) a chair. Sometimes you get a freebie because chair man is not always in his hut. Lots of water sports here, parasailing, jet skis, banana boats. Water beautifully warm for a splash, good place to snooze, read or watch the water activities. Relaxing.

Palau Cenan

NB on Langkowi

You can do most things here in four or five days, we elected to stay for six nights to escape the heat of Penang. I was quite unwell while here with a throat infection and lost my voice so had to have some rest time. We quite enjoyed being here in the laid back atmosphere. There seems to be a lack of maintenance in Malaysia, for instance, if a pavement is broken, they stick a large tree truck in the hole so that you don't fall in.  We enjoyed this holiday within a holiday.

PENANG

Arulmigu Hindu Temple

The Balathandayuthapani Temple, officially the Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Kovil, and better known as the Waterfall Hill Temple or Hill Top Murugan Temple is one of the oldest Hindu temples in Penang.

According to popular belief, a sadhu (holy man) chose a spot close to the waterfalls for a shrine dedicated to Murugan. The place was called thanner malai, meaning water hill, and the deity itself was known as Thannermalaian, or "he who resides by the waterfall".

Visitors to this Temple have a long climb, with over 500 steps to the top, quite a feat in the heat of Penang. The winding route allows you to stop several times to enjoy the scenery. As you climb higher, the skyscrapers of Gurney Drive and eventually the rest of George Town come into view. We climbed the 500 plus steps in mid thirties temperature and so were relieved to be able to go inside the cooler temple for recovery time. And then it was the long route down, a little less arduous than the route up. We were pleased when the hop on a/cond bus came along so we could cool down before we hopped off again.

Penang Hill

Amazing as it may sound, a cooling environment in the hot and humid weather of Penang, Penang Hill is the only cool places to visit in Penang. A hill with elevation of about 830 m has proved that it is one of the main attractions not only to visitors but also locals.

The coolness of the hill especially when you are at the peak will provide a much needed calm and relaxation from the hot and bustling stress of the city of Georgetown. With the temperature ranging from 20 to 25 degrees C, it is a place to relax and rejuvenate.

Funicular train leaves every 20 to 25 minutes and can carry a max of apx 80 passengers per trip. You can buy your ticket at the ticket counter, then take some time to visit the gallery that is located behind the ticketing counter. The gallery showcases some of the old Penang Hill's history which includes photos and antique items. We took the train to the top and spent some time there enjoying the cooler climate and views over the city.

There is a hotel here so would be good to stay for a night to be in a cooler environment but really there would not be that much to do.

Part of the steep railway track

Good views from the top of Penang Hill

Fort Cornwallis

Fort Cornwallis is the largest standing fort in Malaysia. Set close to the Esplanade and Penang Clocktower, the star-shaped bastion is one of the oldest structures in Penang. Named after Marquis Charles Cornwallis, only a set of ten-foot high outer walls remain with an enclosed park within. Situated on Penang’s north-eastern coast, a stroll along the privately-managed Fort Cornwallis’ perimeters will take you about 10 minutes. It is a surreal experience to hear the 1812 Overture playing over the speaker system while a Malaysian man dressed in full British regalia stands at the gate. Inside the fort are a variety of exhibits.

There is an open air food court here but we opted for a Chinese air/conditioned vegetarian restaurant nearby for lunch. Not sure what we ordered but it tasted okay.

Spice Gardens

The Tropical Spice Garden is a prime tourist attraction in Penang. It is located in an eight acre valley fronting the shores of Teluk Bahang. It showcases a landscaped garden that consists of tropical collections from all over the world.

With more than 500 varieties of tropical herbs and spices, the sights and sounds from the Tropical Spice Garden will offer a tranquil retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Upon entering the Tropical Spice Garden, you can feel and smell the nice aroma of perfumed plants that welcome you. After paying entry fee you are offered a bottle of spray to prevent mosquitoes bites. Your walk towards the garden trails begins at the front office. There is a large pond where fish and terrapins live amongst the pretty water plants and lillies. You can follow the trails that are provided to experience the beautiful flora of the garden. You can take a self guided audio tour which gives a guide to each numbered area. Monkeys can be seen swinging from trees, birds in abundance and large reptiles including snakes, all free roaming. A snake had caught a monkey and was trying to engorge it but it spat it out either from difficulty or taste, not sure which.

The Tree Monkey Thai Restaurant is perched on the hill of the Spice Garden. Surrounded by lush greenery and trees overlooking the Andaman Sea, this restaurant is a lovely area to stop and have

lunch. We sat in the peaceful outside dining area and had a quite delicious lunch. In my opinion, Spice Garden is one of the best tourist attractions in Penang.

Pretty Fish Pond

Lunch at the Tree Monkey Thai Restaurant

After lunch at the restaurant

Georgetown

Is the capital of Penang. From the Straits Quay area where we stayed, you can drive to Tesco (five minutes away) park car and take the bus into Georgetown at a cost of 2 ringgit. We went in about three times. There is Chinatown, Little India, many food stalls, cafes, restaurants and eating outlets of some kind. One time we took the free shuttle bus around the city, a good way to observe in a/c comfort. We constantly looked for relief from the heat in a shopping area, coffee shop, bus or taxi etc. Walking very far is out of the question. Early morning is the best time but most things don't open until 9.30 a.m. Many areas look quite grotty and in need of maintenance. Pavements and kerbsides are often in need of repair so you must watch you footing.

Little India

Georgetown is a Unesco city and there are many old buildings here that must be preserved. There is quite a lot of street art in Georgetown and murals can be seen on the sides of buildings. There are many shops displaying their wares here.

Example of street art

Children on a bike

There are a number of other murals on buildings that you come across walking through Georgetown.

Aerobics Competition

One time on a walk through Georgetown we came upon an aerobics competition where various groups on a stage were gyrating to a loud beat as were the crowds of kids and young adults alike. Quite amusing to watch for a while (in a shaded area).  Yellow seemed to be the colour choice of clothing.

The crowd follows the leader on stage

Stage Performers

The Clan Jetties, Georgetown

The Clan Jetties form part of the Penang Heritage Trail. There used to be seven jetties until one was demolished by fire and now six remain. Billed as one of the last bastions of old Chinese settlements on the island, this waterfront society is home to various Chinese clans. Located straight down from Lebuh Chulia (beside the Kapitan Kling Mosque) at Pengkalan Weld (Weld Quay), these water villages are over a century old. Each jetty is named after a Chinese clan – the Chew Jetty is the most tourist-friendly with the most stilt-houses, the longest walkway and a temple. Also close to the ferry terminal.

The Blue Mansion, Georgetown

With both Asian traditions and Western influence adorning the interior, the mansion is pretty much Cheong Fatt Tze’s manifestation of success during his lifetime (apart from his successful business, he also had 8 wives, concubines, hand-maidens, 8 sons and 6 daughters). We took the tour that takes appoximately an hour. A Chinese lady explains about the life and traditions of Cheong Fatt Tze as she takes you through the rooms of the mansion. I found her accent hard to understand at times and with 50 plus tourists in our group if you were a little away from her it proved more difficult. Upstairs were pictures of previous residents and clothing of that era.  Interesting.

Inside the Blue Mansion

The exterior

New World Hawker Centre

There is a multitude of street food in Penang with very many culinary choices. Food stalls are set up by the road side while others are located in food courts.

By far the largest food court in Georgetown is the New World Park Food Court. In total, there are over twenty stalls serving a good mix of Penang’s street food. Once seated at a table, you must note your table number, go to a stall and order and give them your number and it will appear in a matter of minutes. All the food here is very cheap. We ordered various dishes and probably spent about 25 to 30 ringgit all up. I think we were the only Westerners here. An interesting experience.

We also sampled a local Indian cafe, the speciality there is banana leaf rice. Your plate is a large banana leaf and there are little piles of rice, vegetables, curry sauces, pappadams, at 5 ringgit very reasonable. We ordered other dishes to accompany. If you are happy with the meal you must fold the leaf in half away from you and that tells them that it was an enjoyable meal.

New World Hawker Centre

  Gurney Plaza, Penang

Gurney Plaza is a waterfront shopping mall in Penang. This is a nine-storey up market mall that houses all the top name stores. We wandered through, didn't buy much. The most interesting area was in the basement where there is a huge food court and many restaurants. We tried the local dish of Laksa accompanied by a couple of other dishes. Very acceptable.

Straits Quay

Straits Quay is Penang's first retail marina. Quite a number of shops, boutiques and restaurants here. As it is only a five minute walk from the house it was our habit to go down for a couple of hours late afternoon for refreshments and a game of scrabble in air conditioned comfort. It seems though that many shops are closing down because of the high rent. Uncle Alberts Fish and Chip Restaurant is very nice, you can sit outside overlooking the water. Veer, a young Indian waiter became very friendly with us and always greeted us with enthusiam when we arrived. It would be a shame if the centre doesn't survive.  There is an Irish Pub here too, inside or nice outside area overlooking the water.

Outside dining area at Straits Quay

Us with Veer, waiter who often served us

Boat to Georgetown from Straits Quay

Visitors can enjoy boat cruises from Straits Quay Marina to Georgetown be it to just savour the views of the island from the sea or trips to neighbouring islands.

If you spend 50 ringgit at Straits Quay, keep the receipt and you can buy a return ticket for 10 ringgit for a cruise that will take you down to Georgetown, a 20 minute trip. When we did this, as we were the only two passengers on board the captain allowed us to take the wheel for a short while. See photos.

Batik Factory, Penang

We toured the factory where we saw workers doing all the steps toward making a beautiful batik piece. It was very informative and interesting to see the men and women applying the wax and hand painting, very slowly and carefully. Finished pieces made into clothing were in the store and for sale but quite expensive. The whole process would be quite labour intensive so understandable.

Penang Swimming Club

We joined as visitors for the month. A very nice centre with gym, pool, sauna (you don't need it, just sit in the sun), restaurant, colonial bar overlooking the pool. We went several times for a swim, a relax in the bar area for coffee, reading, internet or just chilling out etc. The restaurant here is very nice, good service and food at a very reasonable price i.e. equivalent of about $20 for lunch for two. We would sometimes plan some time here to coincide with lunch. Basically we would lunch out most days, much to hot to cook in the house.

A Local Hawker Centre

James and Christine (neighbours opposite) took us out to a local hawker centre on our last night in Penang. We had a fun evening, good to have locals with us who knew the good stalls to buy from. They kept ordering, our table was full of dishes including 100 year old eggs, satay sticks, various rice and chicken and prawn dishes. We didn't try the fish head soup though. We were full as a goog. NB James and Christine were a great source of information, how to get to places etc, in fact, they took us around a few times pointing out places of interest to visit and places to eat. Very nice helpful people. We hope they visit Bribie Island one day when we can reciprocate.

A Memorable Evening with James and Christine

Popular Centre where many locals eat

Shaved Ice

Is a local speciality.  James and Christine took us to the place that sells it.  It contains fruit of your choice, jelly, nuts and is topped with shaved ice.  Extremely yummy and cooling.

NB On Penang

My opinion is that a maximum of one week is all you would need to see most things of interest in Penang. The heat here I found oppressive and very uncomfortable living conditions. It is just far too hot to be out and about and doing any activities that require walking or any form of light exertion. We carried small towels with us wherever we went to mop up the perspiration. If undertaking the month house swap here, you just have to get out of Penang (and this information was given to us by a previous house swapper) i.e. there are islands you can visit, also the Cameron Highlands where it is delightfully cool.   We Australians are just not used to this type of heat.  Kuala Lumpur is about five hours by coach away but again you have the high temps there, we spent two nights in KL, one to break our journey from Malacca to Penang and one at a beautiful airport hotel, Sama Sama, on our way home to Australia. Malacca would be a good excursion en route home although we did it first on our way to Penang. In hindsight I would have done it in reverse. Driving in Penang is okay but care must be taken at all times due to the unruly habits of the local motor bike riders of which there are many. They take no notice of red lights and drive straight through, overtake on the inside and generally do not obey road rules. Cars often do not indicate their intentions. As long as you are aware of that and take extra care, it's okay.