PENANG

Arulmigu Hindu Temple

The Balathandayuthapani Temple, officially the Arulmigu Balathandayuthapani Kovil, and better known as the Waterfall Hill Temple or Hill Top Murugan Temple is one of the oldest Hindu temples in Penang.

According to popular belief, a sadhu (holy man) chose a spot close to the waterfalls for a shrine dedicated to Murugan. The place was called thanner malai, meaning water hill, and the deity itself was known as Thannermalaian, or "he who resides by the waterfall".

Visitors to this Temple have a long climb, with over 500 steps to the top, quite a feat in the heat of Penang. The winding route allows you to stop several times to enjoy the scenery. As you climb higher, the skyscrapers of Gurney Drive and eventually the rest of George Town come into view. We climbed the 500 plus steps in mid thirties temperature and so were relieved to be able to go inside the cooler temple for recovery time. And then it was the long route down, a little less arduous than the route up. We were pleased when the hop on a/cond bus came along so we could cool down before we hopped off again.

Penang Hill

Amazing as it may sound, a cooling environment in the hot and humid weather of Penang, Penang Hill is the only cool places to visit in Penang. A hill with elevation of about 830 m has proved that it is one of the main attractions not only to visitors but also locals.

The coolness of the hill especially when you are at the peak will provide a much needed calm and relaxation from the hot and bustling stress of the city of Georgetown. With the temperature ranging from 20 to 25 degrees C, it is a place to relax and rejuvenate.

Funicular train leaves every 20 to 25 minutes and can carry a max of apx 80 passengers per trip. You can buy your ticket at the ticket counter, then take some time to visit the gallery that is located behind the ticketing counter. The gallery showcases some of the old Penang Hill's history which includes photos and antique items. We took the train to the top and spent some time there enjoying the cooler climate and views over the city.

There is a hotel here so would be good to stay for a night to be in a cooler environment but really there would not be that much to do.

Part of the steep railway track

Good views from the top of Penang Hill

Fort Cornwallis

Fort Cornwallis is the largest standing fort in Malaysia. Set close to the Esplanade and Penang Clocktower, the star-shaped bastion is one of the oldest structures in Penang. Named after Marquis Charles Cornwallis, only a set of ten-foot high outer walls remain with an enclosed park within. Situated on Penang’s north-eastern coast, a stroll along the privately-managed Fort Cornwallis’ perimeters will take you about 10 minutes. It is a surreal experience to hear the 1812 Overture playing over the speaker system while a Malaysian man dressed in full British regalia stands at the gate. Inside the fort are a variety of exhibits.

There is an open air food court here but we opted for a Chinese air/conditioned vegetarian restaurant nearby for lunch. Not sure what we ordered but it tasted okay.

Spice Gardens

The Tropical Spice Garden is a prime tourist attraction in Penang. It is located in an eight acre valley fronting the shores of Teluk Bahang. It showcases a landscaped garden that consists of tropical collections from all over the world.

With more than 500 varieties of tropical herbs and spices, the sights and sounds from the Tropical Spice Garden will offer a tranquil retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.

Upon entering the Tropical Spice Garden, you can feel and smell the nice aroma of perfumed plants that welcome you. After paying entry fee you are offered a bottle of spray to prevent mosquitoes bites. Your walk towards the garden trails begins at the front office. There is a large pond where fish and terrapins live amongst the pretty water plants and lillies. You can follow the trails that are provided to experience the beautiful flora of the garden. You can take a self guided audio tour which gives a guide to each numbered area. Monkeys can be seen swinging from trees, birds in abundance and large reptiles including snakes, all free roaming. A snake had caught a monkey and was trying to engorge it but it spat it out either from difficulty or taste, not sure which.

The Tree Monkey Thai Restaurant is perched on the hill of the Spice Garden. Surrounded by lush greenery and trees overlooking the Andaman Sea, this restaurant is a lovely area to stop and have

lunch. We sat in the peaceful outside dining area and had a quite delicious lunch. In my opinion, Spice Garden is one of the best tourist attractions in Penang.

Pretty Fish Pond

Lunch at the Tree Monkey Thai Restaurant

After lunch at the restaurant

Georgetown

Is the capital of Penang. From the Straits Quay area where we stayed, you can drive to Tesco (five minutes away) park car and take the bus into Georgetown at a cost of 2 ringgit. We went in about three times. There is Chinatown, Little India, many food stalls, cafes, restaurants and eating outlets of some kind. One time we took the free shuttle bus around the city, a good way to observe in a/c comfort. We constantly looked for relief from the heat in a shopping area, coffee shop, bus or taxi etc. Walking very far is out of the question. Early morning is the best time but most things don't open until 9.30 a.m. Many areas look quite grotty and in need of maintenance. Pavements and kerbsides are often in need of repair so you must watch you footing.

Little India

Georgetown is a Unesco city and there are many old buildings here that must be preserved. There is quite a lot of street art in Georgetown and murals can be seen on the sides of buildings. There are many shops displaying their wares here.

Example of street art

Children on a bike

There are a number of other murals on buildings that you come across walking through Georgetown.

Aerobics Competition

One time on a walk through Georgetown we came upon an aerobics competition where various groups on a stage were gyrating to a loud beat as were the crowds of kids and young adults alike. Quite amusing to watch for a while (in a shaded area).  Yellow seemed to be the colour choice of clothing.

The crowd follows the leader on stage

Stage Performers

The Clan Jetties, Georgetown

The Clan Jetties form part of the Penang Heritage Trail. There used to be seven jetties until one was demolished by fire and now six remain. Billed as one of the last bastions of old Chinese settlements on the island, this waterfront society is home to various Chinese clans. Located straight down from Lebuh Chulia (beside the Kapitan Kling Mosque) at Pengkalan Weld (Weld Quay), these water villages are over a century old. Each jetty is named after a Chinese clan – the Chew Jetty is the most tourist-friendly with the most stilt-houses, the longest walkway and a temple. Also close to the ferry terminal.

The Blue Mansion, Georgetown

With both Asian traditions and Western influence adorning the interior, the mansion is pretty much Cheong Fatt Tze’s manifestation of success during his lifetime (apart from his successful business, he also had 8 wives, concubines, hand-maidens, 8 sons and 6 daughters). We took the tour that takes appoximately an hour. A Chinese lady explains about the life and traditions of Cheong Fatt Tze as she takes you through the rooms of the mansion. I found her accent hard to understand at times and with 50 plus tourists in our group if you were a little away from her it proved more difficult. Upstairs were pictures of previous residents and clothing of that era.  Interesting.

Inside the Blue Mansion

The exterior

New World Hawker Centre

There is a multitude of street food in Penang with very many culinary choices. Food stalls are set up by the road side while others are located in food courts.

By far the largest food court in Georgetown is the New World Park Food Court. In total, there are over twenty stalls serving a good mix of Penang’s street food. Once seated at a table, you must note your table number, go to a stall and order and give them your number and it will appear in a matter of minutes. All the food here is very cheap. We ordered various dishes and probably spent about 25 to 30 ringgit all up. I think we were the only Westerners here. An interesting experience.

We also sampled a local Indian cafe, the speciality there is banana leaf rice. Your plate is a large banana leaf and there are little piles of rice, vegetables, curry sauces, pappadams, at 5 ringgit very reasonable. We ordered other dishes to accompany. If you are happy with the meal you must fold the leaf in half away from you and that tells them that it was an enjoyable meal.

New World Hawker Centre

  Gurney Plaza, Penang

Gurney Plaza is a waterfront shopping mall in Penang. This is a nine-storey up market mall that houses all the top name stores. We wandered through, didn't buy much. The most interesting area was in the basement where there is a huge food court and many restaurants. We tried the local dish of Laksa accompanied by a couple of other dishes. Very acceptable.

Straits Quay

Straits Quay is Penang's first retail marina. Quite a number of shops, boutiques and restaurants here. As it is only a five minute walk from the house it was our habit to go down for a couple of hours late afternoon for refreshments and a game of scrabble in air conditioned comfort. It seems though that many shops are closing down because of the high rent. Uncle Alberts Fish and Chip Restaurant is very nice, you can sit outside overlooking the water. Veer, a young Indian waiter became very friendly with us and always greeted us with enthusiam when we arrived. It would be a shame if the centre doesn't survive.  There is an Irish Pub here too, inside or nice outside area overlooking the water.

Outside dining area at Straits Quay

Us with Veer, waiter who often served us

Boat to Georgetown from Straits Quay

Visitors can enjoy boat cruises from Straits Quay Marina to Georgetown be it to just savour the views of the island from the sea or trips to neighbouring islands.

If you spend 50 ringgit at Straits Quay, keep the receipt and you can buy a return ticket for 10 ringgit for a cruise that will take you down to Georgetown, a 20 minute trip. When we did this, as we were the only two passengers on board the captain allowed us to take the wheel for a short while. See photos.

Batik Factory, Penang

We toured the factory where we saw workers doing all the steps toward making a beautiful batik piece. It was very informative and interesting to see the men and women applying the wax and hand painting, very slowly and carefully. Finished pieces made into clothing were in the store and for sale but quite expensive. The whole process would be quite labour intensive so understandable.

Penang Swimming Club

We joined as visitors for the month. A very nice centre with gym, pool, sauna (you don't need it, just sit in the sun), restaurant, colonial bar overlooking the pool. We went several times for a swim, a relax in the bar area for coffee, reading, internet or just chilling out etc. The restaurant here is very nice, good service and food at a very reasonable price i.e. equivalent of about $20 for lunch for two. We would sometimes plan some time here to coincide with lunch. Basically we would lunch out most days, much to hot to cook in the house.

A Local Hawker Centre

James and Christine (neighbours opposite) took us out to a local hawker centre on our last night in Penang. We had a fun evening, good to have locals with us who knew the good stalls to buy from. They kept ordering, our table was full of dishes including 100 year old eggs, satay sticks, various rice and chicken and prawn dishes. We didn't try the fish head soup though. We were full as a goog. NB James and Christine were a great source of information, how to get to places etc, in fact, they took us around a few times pointing out places of interest to visit and places to eat. Very nice helpful people. We hope they visit Bribie Island one day when we can reciprocate.

A Memorable Evening with James and Christine

Popular Centre where many locals eat

Shaved Ice

Is a local speciality.  James and Christine took us to the place that sells it.  It contains fruit of your choice, jelly, nuts and is topped with shaved ice.  Extremely yummy and cooling.

NB On Penang

My opinion is that a maximum of one week is all you would need to see most things of interest in Penang. The heat here I found oppressive and very uncomfortable living conditions. It is just far too hot to be out and about and doing any activities that require walking or any form of light exertion. We carried small towels with us wherever we went to mop up the perspiration. If undertaking the month house swap here, you just have to get out of Penang (and this information was given to us by a previous house swapper) i.e. there are islands you can visit, also the Cameron Highlands where it is delightfully cool.   We Australians are just not used to this type of heat.  Kuala Lumpur is about five hours by coach away but again you have the high temps there, we spent two nights in KL, one to break our journey from Malacca to Penang and one at a beautiful airport hotel, Sama Sama, on our way home to Australia. Malacca would be a good excursion en route home although we did it first on our way to Penang. In hindsight I would have done it in reverse. Driving in Penang is okay but care must be taken at all times due to the unruly habits of the local motor bike riders of which there are many. They take no notice of red lights and drive straight through, overtake on the inside and generally do not obey road rules. Cars often do not indicate their intentions. As long as you are aware of that and take extra care, it's okay.